Went to Napoli for 5 days to escape Carnival here in Venice and to see the sights. So let's review Napoli in the sequence suggested by the blog's title.
The Good....
Pompeii and Herculaneum, San Carlo Opera House, the Capodimonte art museum, Mt Vesuvius, pizza.
The ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum: extraordinary that the cities existed in the first place and that they have been uncovered and are visitable. They were both discovered in the late 18th century and began to be uncovered from approximately 30 or more metres of volcanic lava from the 79 AD eruption. Pic below of me in Pompeii with THE mountain at rest. Nearby Herculaneum is more visitable as its ruins are in good shape so that one can better see the interiors of houses, including lovely wall paintings and decorations. Pompeii was practically deserted of tourists (and completely of residents). Herculaneum was totally ours. Only other people there were guides who, after you have informed them that you do not wish their services, follow you around and try to insinuate themselves into your tourist life. Sheeeesh! Guides! The picture of what looks like a kitchen is a kitchen. 
It was open to the public and those holes you see were warming areas for different foods. Beneath the holes were hot coals. Below is a cast of a child victim of Vesuvius. About 20,000 people lived in Herculaneum and most died in the eruption.
San Carlo is lovely opera house, a little worn, but quite large. We heard Rossini's Stabat Mater with a large orchestra, the 4 soloists and a 100 member choir. Excellent. Some say it lacks the spiritual content of Pergolesi's Stabat, but it is very musical.
The Capodimonte is an enormous gallery built on a similar format and scale as the Kunsthistoriches Museum in Vienna. It contains hundreds and hundreds of master paintings with strong entries from Tiziano, Raphael, Lotto, Coreggio, Carracci, El Greco, Palma the Elder, Parmigianino, Salviati, Fra Bartolomeo, Bruegel the Elder, Mantegna, Bellini, Vivarini, Van Dyck...well, you get the picture.
They say pizza was invented here. It is certainly ubiquitous. James Joyce quipped that a good puzzle would be to try to walk from the north side of Dublin to the south without passing a pub. In Naples one cannot walk down a steet, an avenue, a square without encountering a pizzeria every 25 feet. They are inexpensive and, of course, the pizza is terrific. The home of pizza, they do say.
The Bad...
Vesuvius you have to call bad. It is unpredictable, incredibily dangerous, imposing. And it is sitting...right there, over your shoulder, and some day it's going shoot off the really big one, again. O tempore! O mores! 
The Ugly...
I am afraid Napoli does ugly well. It's 18th and 19th century architecture is run down, disfigured by peeling and faded stucco and paint and by horrible, dated alterations. Then you have the postwar contribution of concrete highrises (5-8 stories) which are very run down and falling apart. There is absolutely no sense of planning, civic responsibility and direction. The picture below (right) is the look of Naples today. We saw no part of Naples that was not like this.
The real ugly of this city is the graffiti. No un-graffitied wall exists. Here are some images. Especially egregious is the graffiti on the statue of Dante. 
The final ugly thing is the ubiquitous garbage. We saw dozens of scenes like those in the photos. Turn a corner, there it is, especially in the suburbs. Maybe another eruption would solve that problem?
