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May 18, 2008

Rescue at sea... and anti-tourism in Venezia

First the story of Venetian can-do...

Two of my customers had just finished a dinner at La Piscina on the Zattere. Upon leaving the dining platform perched 2 feet above the Giudecca Canal, wishing to record the view for posterity, Carol dropped her Canon into the canal. They went home the next day and I received an email asking if it was recoverable. The problem was not the camera but the almost 200 pics of their Italian holiday that were lost.

The Giudecca Canal is the very wide canal in which cruise ships of 3,000 to 5,000 passengers (each) ply every day, and, thus, the water is deep and rough. But I remembered a gondolier named Dante who was occasionally asked to retrieve lost items sub-aqua. Once, he successfully retrieved a lost diamond ring that fell into the S. Trovaso Canal near the Schiavi bar, an expat watering hole. I phoned Dante and he agreed to do a dive, now three days after the camera fell. The next day, Dante arrived in his power boat at lunch time.. La Piscina restaurant is on left in the picture. Dante_006_3

Apprised of the situation, he was pessimistic, given the serious tides and also the infestation of a newly arrived seaweed called Japanese something. Like a trooper, Dante donned his wet suit, adjusted his face mask and took the plunge...note Japanese seaweed in the picture.

Dante_010Now Dante does his thing. The water near the edge is only about two to two and one-half metres deep so no need for weights or a snorkel, just breath control. Dante smokes between two and three packs a day.

Dante repeatedly surfaced and dived, each time asking me if I am sure that the location is right...yes, yes, I say, it's down there. By this time we have attracted a crowd, including the four waiters from the Piscina restaurant, the bus boys, and some of the diners and passers by. And all had opinions. An unwelcome visitor was a police boat. Swimming in a canal is prohibited in Venice. Also, no private boats are allowed to dock or tie-up anywhere on the Giudecca Canal. The 2 cops gave Dante a verbal warning. But Dante, a grizzled Venetian, gave them some considerable Venetian lip, and the cops decided to float away. DaDante_008_3nte made about 20 surface dives and, when all seemed lost, like King Arthur when he pulled Excalibur from the stone, Dante triumphantly shot out of the water with the camera in hand. Rounds of applause. Deep joy. Dante, our hero.

Dante_013_2 Dante_012_5  Dante_014

Dante_015_3

The camera was completely waterlogged. Those silver-type cases may look watertight, they ain't. I drained the camera and removed the memory card. I then buried the camera at sea...again. At home I was able to upload all 197 pictures after a wipe clean with a cotton bud. Holiday rescued, camera ruined. 

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Is the following anti-tourism or what? I am talking about the Venice government's attitude to tourists. Tourists keep this city alive; there is no other business - the glass business, for example, is simply a part of the tourist trade. We get approximately 22,000,000 tourists per annum and there are about 57,000 people who live here. Just the facts, m'am, as Sgt Joe Friday said often. It is said Venice and Florence are the two most expensive cities in Italy, for everything - housing, hotels, restaurants, stuff, services, and ...transportation.

Which brings me to today's second topic: Venice's discriminatory policies for transport.  Below is a vaporetto, otherwise known as a water bus.

Vaporetto

Item 1:  a one hour ticket for a waterbus for a Venetian resident costs 0.90. For a tourist(American, Italian, French, etc.) it costs 6.50. For a monthly pass, a Venetian pays €26, a tourist pays €31 for only 72 hours.

Item 2: Until a month or two ago, there were two main waterbus lines on the Grand Canal (the lines most used by Venetians and  tourists): The no. 1 and the no. 2 (formerly the no.82). Then the city added a new line, the no. 3, which stops at the same local stops as the no. 1. The no. 3, however, is available only to Venetian residents. It usually carries a only a handful of riders, while the other two lines are uncomfortably packed solid with some Venetians but mostly with tourists. You should see the expressions on the faces of Americans and non-resident Italian tourists who innocently try to board a no. 3 and are told,sometimes brusquely, "solo residenti", residents only, and they are not allowed to board. Thus, all day long near-empty no. 3 vaporettos sail up and down the Grand Canal while the nos. 1 and 2 often look like refugee boats, teeming with humanity hanging over the sides. ...another nose thumb to tourists. ....a good solution would have been to make the no. 3, another no. 1, so we could have a no.1 running every 5 mins instead of every 10, and tourists and Venetians would be happy.

   

   

May 09, 2008

Today is the day the Lord has made...

And it's not even Sunday... at 9:30 this morning my world famous novelist wife and I walked to nearby Campo S. Margherita to our usual outdoor cafe. We refer to the proprietor there as "the little man", a nickname we assigned him eight years ago based on his stature and rather sad demeanor and only says Buon Giorno when we say it first, even though I sometimes say "Salve!" but never "Ciao!". But we go there many mornings because he is at the far end of the campo where it is quieter and he doesn't attract any young, loud, smoking students, just old farts like us. But we think we have won him over. Also, he makes fresh every morning a delicious apple-ish-buttery pastry called sfoglia (flaky pastry).

Smarg2_2 Anyway, this morning was spectacularly beautiful, warm with a slight cooling breeze, solid blue sky with no hint of a cloud, old ladies buying their fish and vegetables, a few students drifting buy and a handfull of tourists gawking at one of the three fish stands in the square. It was a beautiful Venice day making up for all the annoyances I have written about in past blogs. For instance, the transportation strike this morning from 9AM to 12:30 PM, stopping all land buses, water buses, and trains.

Sick Bed?...There is a brand new hospital for Venice, situated in Zelarino, a few kms from Venice proper. It is meant to replace or off-load the old hospital in Mestre. It is a modern affair with a huge glass wall (see photo), slanting at about 30°to allow light to stream in. The area behind the glass contains the open corridors, Hospglass_3 fly-overs and the main waiting areas. It opened for business last week and, surprise, surprise, it gets very hot inside, in fact, oven hot. It seems the builders did not use special glass (as was specified in the design) to filter and reflect the sun's rays...they used vetro normale, ordinary glass and, thereby, created a furnace. Yesterday, as an emergency measure, they took the large canvas opening day sign reading "Il Nuovo Ospedale di Mestre" and repositioned it atop the glass to block part of the sun.

Finally, it seems some of the windows at the top can be opened and they were opened for hot air to escape. But a defect in the windows' metal framing structure (it transpires) allowed the wind to cause the metalwork to vibrate so violently and loudly that people below thought an earthquate was occurring and they fled in panic.